The bus driver couldn’t get away fast enough, and as we had arrived earlier than expected, we weren’t terribly well organised as we quickly gathered our stuff, disembarked and stood on the pavement in a state of dishevelment. The station at Gdańsk is being renovated and is a total mess. It was quite a business trying to organise change for the lockers (AND for the toilets!!).
After sorting out the left-luggage, we started with a walk to Solidarity Square to see the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers. Lying right outside famous gate no. 2 to the Gdansk Shipyards, the monument was unveiled in 1980 to commemorate the events of 1970 when 45 people died during street riots protesting against the communist regime. Overlooking the square is the new European Solidarity Centre.
Along with wage demands and the right to form free trade unions, the right to erect this memorial was one of Solidarity's main demands during the 1980 lock-in. The 42-metre, 139-tonne steel sculpture stands on the spot where the first three victims of the 1970 riots were killed. There are three crosses to represent the three victims and the crosses themselves signify the suffering and sacrifice of all the protesters. At the top are the anchors signifying the men’s profession and in the lower reaches the figures of their struggling comrades are depicted.
Solidarity leader Lech Walesa referred to this enormous steel structure as “a harpoon driven through the body of a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can never get rid of it”.
The monument is marked by a poignant inscription by Czesław Miłosz:
“You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will be born, and your deeds and words will be written down”.
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This was a bucket-list item for me. I remember the events of 1970 well and the bravery of the men and the leadership of Lech Walesa.
We had a lovely wander around with the place to ourselves, given it was only about 7 a.m. in the morning! We spent plenty of time taking it all in.
From here we popped inside St. Bridget's Church for a look at the Amber Altar. The 'Baltic gold' was transformed by master craftsmen into a splendid altar, the largest of its kind in the world. The church itself is also a marvel and as there was a service in progress, with about six parishioners (!), we just sat awhile listening to the Polish and understanding not much more than ‘amen’.
We discovered the covered market (
Hala Targowa) when we were just wandering along. It was still early, so they were still setting up.
We then climbed to the top of St. Mary's Church (Bazylika Mariacka) the largest brick Gothic cathedral in the world, for a stunning panorama of the city below. MF wasn’t keen but the views were worth the climb - they should be after 409 steps. Made sure I got plenty of shots!!
More people are out and about now; the tourists have emerged.
Finally, breakfast at
Drukarnia Cafe in the famous Mariacka St, lined with Dutch and German-style townhouses and upmarket amber stores; I think it should be called Amber Street! We had a scrumptious brekkie out on the balcony. We have ticked off the main sights and it is only 10 a.m.
We were now close to the waterfront and proceeded down Long Street (
Ulica Dluga), once known as one of the world’s great boulevards: the Fifth Avenue of its day, starting from the Green Gate (
Zielona Brama) to the Golden Gate (
Złota Brama) to the west. We visited the Gdansk Gallery of Photography (at the Green Gate) for a good black and white portrait exhibition. There were also several colourful street processions today.
Further along are the Main Town Hall and Neptun's fountain (
Krëszto). Built in the late 14th century as the seat of city authorities, the Town Hall hosted many Polish kings. It was almost completely destroyed during WWII but rebuilt with extraordinary care. The tower contains a 37-bell clarion which was inaugurated on New Year's Eve 2000.
This is the Royal Route which the king of Poland used when he travelled from Warsaw to Gdańsk: he would enter the city through the Upland Gate (
Brama Wyżynna), continue through the Golden Gate (
Złota Brama) and its proud statues and inscriptions, and then head along Long Street (
ulica Długa) and Long Market (
Długi Targ) to the Green Gate (
Zielona Brama). Today, the beautiful port city of Gdańsk, which was ravaged by World War II, has had its historical centre rebuilt. It is quite stunning.
We sat on the park benches in the cool shade of the buildings watching the hordes of people and then meandered away from the frantic tourist paths and into the more real neighbourhood areas where the locals eat and sleep. I always feel happy in these places😄.
We were looking for a specific cafe but when we found it, it was boarded up. There were plenty of others to choose from and we both enjoyed a cool drink here and whiled away some time.
It was a hot walk to the station - we detoured via Mariacka Street and visited the waterfront again. At the station, there was much confusion for us (and some other travellers!) about which platform the train to Warsaw was to arrive on. No indicator boards, lots of renovation in progress and much toing and froing and nervous energy expended. Finally got it sorted and now enroute to Warsaw.
The EIP train was fast and smooth, very pleasant. Slept a short time. It is a 3-hour journey into Warsaw.
We know the way to our hotel from the station as we stayed here when we first arrived back on 16th May. Gosh that seems a long time ago!!
We are booked into
Nolita for dinner. Exquisite!
Then to bed. Our view of the 'Palace' of Culture and Science opposite our hotel room.
Steps: 21000 (15.7 kms) , and climbed the equivalent of 38 floors!
A NOTE ON AMBER:
Since 4,000 BC, people living along the Baltic's shores have used the Amber it provides in art, jewelry, and just about anything else you can imagine. During Roman times, there was an Amber Route which provided the empire with access to the Baltic's Gold.
The first workshops in Gdansk appeared in the year 900AD and as the worth of the material and the craftsman's skill in manipulating it grew, a guild was eventually formed in 1477. These master artisans could (and did) work the 'Tears of the Sun' into everything from stunning necklaces to miniature figurines.
Today, Gdansk maintains its proud tradition and excellent reputation as the best source for Amber crafts in the world.
