Day 3 We venture into the Danube Delta: Murighiol to Sulina

It is another beautiful day. I awake early but miss the sunrise. Will have to set the alarm for tomorrow. The river is still lovely even after sunrise.

Our small launch takes us down a narrow canal, almost hidden and we have a lovely tranquil sail along this looking at birds, water lillies, terapins, storks nests, cattle and horses grazing. Also orchids.

The launch offloads us and the bikes to start today’s ride which is lots of bumpy gravel: on the right - the open range of the Black Sea, on the left - lush green reeds and marsh land.



One of the Mihais runs the course until the first break at lunchtime. He is raising money for charity and we alternatively pass him and then he gets ahead when we stop for photos (and punctures!).

We stop at Sulina Beach and visit the cemetery. Work on the Danube in the 19th century, attracted workers from all over Europe, and the Anglican, Catholic, Protestant, Orthodox, Muslim and Jewish tombstones in Sulina's cemetery bear witness to this former international community.

Finally we reach Mile "0" at Sulina: the mighty Danube has reached its destination at the lighthouse and empties into the Black Sea. The 60-foot-tall lighthouse, located in the middle of town and which was built in 1802 and restored in 1870 by the Danube Commission, is our last stop before we cycle into the promenade.

The sleepy fishing port of Sulina is Romania's easternmost point (64km east of Tulcea) on the Danube's central arm. My knuckles ache from hanging on hard to the handlebars.


The houseboat is waiting for us here, having travelled along the Sulina Arm. Although it only carries 18% of the total water, Sulina is the main navigation route for passenger and commercial traffic. Between 1880 and 1902, a canal was dug to facilitate river traffic, shortening the natural course of the Sulina arm and allowing for easier access to villages in the Delta.

Cycle: 23.5 kms