Day 4 To Crișan

I miss the sunrise - again! (Despite setting the alarm). I was awake - just too slow to go up on deck.

Still fascinating watching the early comings and goings both on land and on water: small boats heading out or coming back in; the early starters off to work. No-one stirring on our boat yet - apart from the cook and Elena, her assistant. Gradually I see the rest of the crew emerging out of their respective vehicles: the tugboat, the launch.

I went for a walk along the promenade, such as it is. The port town of Sulina is the terminus point for cruise liners sailing across the Delta and once bustled with traders from Europe and the Middle East, adventurers and sea pirates. The town served as headquarters for the European Danube Commission during the 19th century when the Danube was turned into a waterway suitable for commercial shipping. The town now seems very rundown - lots of boarded up buildings, broken windows ...

Even some of the churches have fallen into disrepair although I think the 19th century Greek Church of Saint Nicholas that I found on my walk may still be a going concern.


We leave by launch to cross the waterway at Sulina then cycle to C. A. Rosetti. The houses are made of clay, wood and reeds. We have lunch at one of the homes here, munching on our picnic lunch on the verandah whilst we wait for the truck to pick us up.

Close to the village, we are taken by an open truck (which would not pass OH&S regulations back home), to a tropical forest with climbing plants and lianes, located on sand dunes. This is Letea Reserve (Padurea Letea), the oldest natural reservation in Romania; it was established in 1938 and has trees more than 500 years old. Besides the 10 species of orchids, asparagus and other subtropical plants, there are poplar, ash, linden, oak, elm, ash and other trees. Wild horses are still present in the national park. I have to say I found this excursion somewhat underwhelming (although the driver and his dog sure provided some entertainment !!!). I suspect there was much more to see than the superficial look we saw of the forest.

Back at C. A. Rosetti, we collect our bikes and ride another 5 kms along a very bumpy road to the village of Letea, located on another water channel.

From here, it is a 1.5 hour trip down a narrow channel where we meet the houseboat and then travel about 3 hours to our stop for the night at the fishing village of Crișan. We are 6 kms from the Ukraine here.

We spend the rest of the afternoon whiling away the time as the houseboat motors along. It was very picturesque and we tied up for the night - in the middle of nowhere!!

It is a rest day tomorrow, thank goodness! My wrists will need a break from the unceasing corrugations of the track.

Cycle: 22 kms.